Climbing in Montagu, South Africa
Montagu is one of South Africa’s two best sport climbing destinations. The other which you can read about here is Waterval Boven. The rock at Montagu is superb, the town is ridiculously quaint and the weather is nice pretty much all the time. What are you waiting for?
The rock is hard sandstone and from what we could tell a little polished on the popular routes. Montagu offers great cracks, edging and fun reachy moves. There were definitely some excellent sectors for moderate climbers, but the majority of good routes are pretty hard. We were only there for a week, but you could easily spend 3 weeks or more climbing all the sectors here. Be sure to get the guidebook to the Western Cape which includes sport routes in Montagu, Cape Town and Rocklands.
Camping and Eating
Most climbers camp at De Bos campground and backpackers. The owners are very friendly, the camping is cheap (40 ZAR a night per person) and there is a nice camp kitchen in their converted barn. You can also get dorm beds (70 ZAR) and double rooms (300-330 ZAR). De Bos is also the closest parking to some climbing sectors and has a great social atmosphere on the weekends when local climbers show up from Cape Town.
Getting into town and to the campground is pretty easy even without your own transportation. The Baz Bus (a hostel to hostel tourist bus) will take you to De Bos campground. From there you can walk to several sectors within a half an hour, others will require a longer approach or a short drive.
If you are arriving by yourself and will be looking for a partner you will probably want to make sure you get in on a weekend. We were there in the lower season in the hottest part of summer so maybe it’s busier at other times, but during the week the campground was pretty deserted. On the weekend the local climbers pour in and there will be partners aplenty. De Bos is definitely your best place to head to meet up with other climbers.