Climbing on Telendos
There it is, sitting off in the distance. Every morning we’ve watched as the sun light creeps down the face reminding us to get off our butts and climb. Telendos might not be a climbing destination in and of itself but it’s worth a visit during your stay on Kalymnos.
Catching the ferry from Myrties is really convenient. The boat captain will take you and all your friends directly to the crags for 20 euro. Many people opt to organize trips with big groups to cut down on costs. It takes about 25 min from pier to crag. The ferry captain also likes to blast Pink Floyd and chain smoke cigars. If you get a chance, ask him about his pet donkey.
The majority of the climbing here is on steep tufas, but there are some face climbs for the moderate climber as well. Not to mention the two epic 9 pitch routes on the north face each with the hardest pitch being 6a+ (5.10b). The ferry captain will take you directly to the access trail for these routes as well.
The rock is pretty sharp compared to the sectors on Kalymnos. Routes will likely become more polished over time, but if you’re looking to beat the crowds and send on some amazing friction then now is the time to go.
When we went we were met with some unexpectedly wet rock. This season has been more wet than usual and it certainly affected some of the climbing. On sector Irox there is a tufa climb that the guide said was worth the visit to Telendos alone. I hopped on only to slip off the wet seeping tufa. After a few attempts it was clear I was no match and lowered in defeat.
We made a little video of my attempt and as you can see we all had to work together to even get the first bolt clipped, let alone send the route. I know on my next trip to Telendos I’ll have a date with a tufa that hopefully won’t reject me this time. Check out the video below.
And of course, no trip to Telendos would be complete without a stop in town. There are only 33 residents on the whole island and in the fall/winter only one taverna stays open. They were happy to see us and we had a nice meal gazing out at the twinkling lights of Masouri reflecting on the Aegean.