Abert Project

It is always a good idea to watch the weather when you plan on doing a multi-pitch climb. For our “epic” 4 pitch “adventure” we spent several days sitting atop our ocean view balcony assessing wind patterns and cloud covering waiting for the best weather window. I am partially joking because Kalymnos weather is ideal for climbing even when it’s near its worst. That said, we did find a beautiful October morning to head up to the Ocean Dream wall and had a fun climb on this little multi-pitch route.

The wall is above Odyssey sector, one of the more popular walls on the island and the approach takes a surprising amount of time. Almost an hour of walking up the marked but hard to find trail and across a scree field, we eventually huffed and puffed our way to the base. (Notice the recurrent cry of spoiled Kalymnian climbers, “the approach takes an hour?!”)

The guidebook lists the route as 5 pitches and 150m. Looking at the topo we saw that the first two pitches were 30 meters each and rated and 5a/b (5.8). They involved an awkward looking traverse to get to the same anchor area as one direct 30 meter 6a (5.10a). We opted for the straighter option making our route only four pitches instead of five.

The climb was consistently fun and technical. Our four pitches amounted to 6a (5.10a), 6a+ (5.10b), 6b (5.10c), 6b (5.10c). The final moves of the last pitch were definitely the crux as the slabby technical wall you’ve spent the last 100 meters traversing gives way to a committing overhang sequence. After the crux it is a pleasure to top out onto the ridge and enjoy the views of Kalymnos, Telendos and even Turkey.

As a bit of an experiment we took the helmet cam with us, but not surprisingly the video didn’t turn out too well. Despite some funny sequences of Kyle looking at his right hand, looking up, looking at his right hand, and then looking up again, seaming together a stop motion video is pretty worthless. The stills you see in this post are from the camera. At least it’s an easy way to photo-document the climb without having to carry a camera.


Here is a little video of us snacking at the top. Not the most exciting, I know, but at least it’s something.

Short Stop-Motion Video of us at the top of the climb.

From the top of the climb we walked down the ridge to find the anchors for a 20 meter abseil. The route is equipped only with a pair of expansion bolts and hangers at each belay station and is therefore not suitable for abseiling. While we were up on the route I saw a few goats taking the walk-off. I chuckled to myself about how they’d obviously have to turn around, lacking harnesses and a rope for the abseil. They proved me wrong. After brief hesitation they sprinted across a 20 meter sheer face and scrambled down to the ground. I swear these goats climb harder than I do sometimes.

Kyle abseiled first then I followed, accidentally kicking off a scary mess of loose rock. Luckily he heard me shout and was able to get out of the way. A scary end to a fun route and a reminder to be attentive at all times!


One Response to “Abert Project”

  1. Candace Colomac said:

    Love the video and the pictures are beautiful!

    November 22nd, 2010 at 6:43 pm

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