Rocca di Perti
During our time in Finale we spent the most time climbing the walls of Rocca di Perti. This is one of the biggest climbing areas and the most prominent on the horizon as you approach Finale from the Autoroute. It isn’t the best summer climbing destination since most of the walls are in the sun, but you can get morning shade on most of the rock if you can get out of bed before 7am. Rocca di Perti is a great winter and shoulder season crag. This was the only crag we could walk to from where we were staying so we made the most of it. It took us about 40 minutes to arrive at Settore Centrale, but being the first wall in the sun we didn’t even climb there.
With over 300 routes here there is something for everyone. There are many multipitch routes and short athletic routes on excellent quality rock. Some areas can be incredibly polished, even to the point where a 5 is no longer a 5 but in reality a 6. The guide still includes the original ratings but is generally good about describing polished routes.
We made it to Settore Dell’Oasi (the oasis) and true to name it was a welcomed refuge to the heat of the sun. It had shade until around 1pm which is later than most of the other walls. We found many routes in the moderate and easy grades which gave us great options for getting back into climbing shape.
Versante Nord is the one wall in the shade in the afternoon. It’s about 20 minutes to the main face from the parking lot and really easy to find. One thing to bear in mind when climbing routes marked with walk offs is that you might have to bring your own anchor system for the top to bring up your second. We got into a little pickle when we reached the top of the third pitch on Anna Pagnini (5c, 6a, 6a) and were shocked not to find any anchors. We made it work with what we had but it wasn’t ideal and involved downclimbing a good 20 feet past two bolts. There is still some amazing rock here. You can also access Settore Centrale from this parking lot which might be a little faster if you don’t have a high clearance vehicle for the road on the front side.
Placca Piotti is a really fantastic wall but has quite a long approach. Probably up to 40 min from either parking lot. We were warming up on Danza Sarcena (5c) one day and disturbed a big wasp’s nest deep in a pocket. We had a little bit of trouble keeping our head while wasps were buzzing around us trying to keep us away. This wasn’t the first nor the last time we found wasps on a climb in Finale but these guys were particularly aggressive unlike the others we encountered. Nearly every route here is a 2 or 3 star which is well deserved. Not to mention the views are superb from the top.
Ombre Blu is a very diverse wall with just about everything imaginable. The namesake Ombre Blu (6a+) is a super nice dihedral and shouldn’t be missed. It’s a quick approach to this area from Settore Centrale and easy to find. There is something to complement all climbing styles here.
There is so much climbing at Rocca Di Perti that you could spend a month climbing everyday and still climb new routes every day. There are at least 180 routes in the 6’s and over 60 in the 7’s. Suffice it to say you would be busy for awhile with this one area.