Five Ten Galileo
Choosing the right climbing shoe is a very personal decision. For me the 5.10 Galileo shoes are the perfect all around climbing shoe. These shoes match comfort with performance and will form to fit you like a glove. Because I climb a lot while traveling internationally I can only carry one pair of shoes. I never leave home without the Galileos. Read below for details on comfort, performance and durability.
The Five Ten Galileo shoes are very comfortable despite a very tight fit. While they are technically men’s shoes I find that they fit my lady feet very well. (Kyle also wears women’s climbing shoes so I guess it’s a personal thing). I still experience some pain on long pitches and regularly take them off when I belay the second on a multi-pitch climb, but I have found that the toe box is well shaped to keep my toes slightly bent, increasing power while avoiding pain. The Velcro system also allows for quick removal and a somewhat customized tightness. The Galileo has a “cowdura” synthetic upper that will limit stretching as you break in the shoes.
The Galileo was built to be a lightweight high-performance shoe. The sole is stiff yet smears well and the Stealth Onyxx rubber provides excellent friction. One of the biggest attributes that led me to the Galileo in the first place was the very well designed heel cup. The Galileo heel is completely surrounded by rubber providing a supportive and well protected fit which helps on heel hooks and tiny edges alike.
I have used the 5.10 Galileo shoes for a few years including 4 months of daily climbing on sharp Ton Sai limestone. The left toe eventually wore through and developed a small hole, but after the damage I subjected them to, I was not surprised. If you climb enough you will wear through the rubber on your shoes. Even as the toe rubber slowly wore through the sole and rand stayed together, more than can be said for other shoes we have owned like the 5.10 Moccasym and the La Sportiva Nago. I have since gotten the Galileos resoled and they are performing like new. I would rate their durability as above average.
I give the Five Ten Galileos a 10 out of 10. They provide a super comfortable fit while allowing for high performance. I can only have one pair of shoes as I climb around the world and the Galileos outperform all others I have tried. They are quite durable and after one resole are still going strong. When they finally wear out I will definitely be replacing them with another pair.
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