Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym

moccasymwhite When selecting a climbing shoe there are a few things I look for: design, technical performance, comfort and durability. The Five Ten moccasyms perform well in most categories but have not been my favorite pair of shoes, details below:

Design

Different shoes are designed for different uses and everything from wide-soled big wall shoes to super aggressive bouldering and sport shoes are available. At our level of climbing and budget we try to find good all-around shoes. When you are traveling around the world climbing it’s nice to not have to carry three pairs of shoes per person. The moccasyms are aggressive enough to tackle difficult routes and once broken-in become comfortable enough to serve as a decent all-arounder. I really appreciate the easy access of the slip-on design though for comfort I still prefer a Velcro shoe.

One attribute that sets the moccasym apart is its simple and well-designed full support heel. This is a different heel than that used on the other Five Ten Anasazis. Where many other Velcro and slip-on shoes leave rubber off on the sides of the heel the moccasym provides a thick and sturdy extension of the sole to fully support any heel hooking you may need to do. For me this is a major plus and the main reason I have avoided other popular shoes like the Evolvs.

Technical Performance

The moccasyms use Five Ten’s Stealth C4 type rubber which provides good lasting friction in any condition. Even on the slippery polished limestone of Thailand and Finale Ligure I have been able to feel confident in the moccasyms. The fit of the moccasym is also tight enough to provide solid support allowing the climber to edge well without forcing the foot into a super aggressive design.

Durability

We have owned the moccasyms for a few years now but have not climbed on them outside consistently. They were used primarily as Kyle’s gym shoes. They have developed into our spare pair of shoes to be used by friends or one of us if our other shoes are being repaired. I’d estimate that this pair has seen a good year of solid climbing activity and it shows.

On the tip of the right shoe the rand and sole have begun to separate slightly and the left toe almost has a hole in it. The base of the toe box is starting to deteriorate on both shoes but still has plenty of friction.

The reality of it is that ALL climbing shoes will wear out. The separation of the rand from the sole on the right shoe is probably more a result of our beginner friends dragging their feet up the wall and the rest of the wear is par for the course with any well-used shoe. After the wear these shoes have seen they are due for a resole. I am happy to say that the upper portions of the shoe are in great condition.

Comfort

Here is where the moccasyms start to fall off my favorite list. They are a wildly popular shoe so others probably do find them comfortable but for both Kyle and I they just don’t make the cut. I have found shoes that perform just as well and fit tighter yet feel far more comfortable on the wall. As a slip-on shoe the moccasym is less adjustable than a Velcro or lace-up design. In the end, comfort is personal and depends on the shape of your individual foot.

The moccasym has a fully leather upper meaning that it stretches as it is broken in. When we first bought the shoes they were much tighter and have since loosened up almost a half size. For many climbers this is an attribute as it ensures a more personal fit. Personally, I prefer synthetic shoes that will not stretch so that I can end up with less of a gamble on fit.

Finally the moccasyms have one blaring quirk that sets them apart. The characteristic red of the leather uppers dyes your feet bright red every time you wear them. At first we thought it must be just because they were new, but after several years of wearing in all different conditions even the slightest amount of sweat will leave your feet rosy red for the rest of the day. Foot appearance is certainly not high on my list of criteria for selecting a climbing shoe but it is so blatant that I feel obligated to mention it in the review. On the plus side, the shocked inquiries into what the heck is wrong with your feet can provide interesting post-climbing conversation with friends.

Review

I would give these shoes 7 out of 10. I appreciate the design and especially the supportive heel. Durability is average and they are still going strong though could use a re-sole. They fall short for us in terms of comfort, but again that’s personal. You may fall in love with the moccasyms and join the tribe of red-footed followers.

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Happy Climbing!

3 Responses to “Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym”

  1. Mark said:

    I’m wit ya on this one. I had a great love of the Moccasym when I was exclusively a sport climber. For me the primary argument against them was foot cams in cracks. I know there are pleny of Indian Creek climbers that swear by them for the tiny cracks, but I find these shoes to be too soft and mushy for trad climbing. My foot cams in this shoe produce a crushing pain that goes beyond normal climbing pain to the point where I’m not able to enjoy or think about anything at all and I’m simply looking for a way to get out of the crack… and I love cracks!


    August 2nd, 2010 at 9:42 am

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    […] the sole and rand stayed together, more than can be said for other shoes we have owned like the 5.10 Moccasym and the La Sportiva Nago. I have since gotten the Galileos resoled and they are performing like […]


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