Climbing in St. Cergue, Switzerland
Located just a short train ride from Geneva and Lausanne, high above Lac Leman in the Jura, St. Cergue makes a great weekend crag. There are several faces ranging in difficulty from 5b to 8a but all are relatively short at 12-20 meters. The rock quality is pretty good, but we experienced some loose rock on some routes. There isn’t anything special about the rock here and I wouldn’t make it a stop on my trip unless I was restricted to public transport.
Spending about a month in Nyon, we went to St. Cergue several times as it was our absolutely closest crag. What makes it a great option is that the climbing is 100% public transportation accessible. In fact, though we came by car, we parked at the St. Cergue train station and started the 10 minute approach from there. This is incredibly convenient if you find yourself in Vaud or Geneve with a desire to climb and no transportation.
If you are indeed taking the train you can find the schedule on the Swiss train site. Tickets are 10.20 CHF each way from Nyon and the train runs approximately every half hour. From the St. Cergue station you walk along the tracks until you see the trail on the right going downhill. Follow the trail parallel to the tracks until you come to a beautiful picnic site and fire pit.
Down the stairs from the picnic site the trail dumps you out right in front of Sector 6. Sectors 1-5 are down the hill to your right and Sector 7 is across the tracks to your left. Topos are available in Yves Remy’s guide to Western Switzerland available at Passe Montange in both Lausanne and Geneve.